Folkstone whelks, Kentish chickens and Gypsy Tart
There are big plans for Folkestone. The high speed train from St Pancras has slashed the journey time down to just 50 minutes and town planners have earmarked run-down districts for ambitious regeneration plans. Investing into this future is chef Mark Sargeant of Saturday Kitchen fame who, having worked under Gordon Ramsay at Claridges when the restaurant earned a Michelin star, has opened two restaurants on Folkestone harbour: Smokehouse, an upmarket fish and chip cafe, and Rocksalt, a smart restaurant and bar.
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| The weatherboarded curved sides of Mark Sargeant's Rock Salt, Folkstone |
These glossy glass, steel and black weatherboarded buildings sit in striking contrast to the gritty industry of this working harbour with its piles of fishing nets, cobbled quay and hotch-potch of warehouses. It’s a wonderful juxtaposition of old and new, industry and leisure, utility and beauty, all unified by seafood and its provenance. You don’t need Heston Blumenthal spraying salty sea air above your head - just take a deep breath and fill your lungs with it. The smell of the sea and the low-tide muds, the cry of seagulls and the sight of fishermen brining in their hauls whip up an appetite for seafood, the speciality of Rocksalt.
The design of Rocksalt makes the most of its views onto the splendid harbour. The restaurant on the ground floor and the bar on the first floor are both glass fronted from floor to ceiling, and there is a large outdoor deck which can be enjoyed even in cooler months thanks to the glass cube fire outside. The warm wood, soft lighting, spacious layout, contemporary design and high quality furniture and fittings of the restaurant makes for a very welcoming and comfortable eating experience, an oasis on the harbour front. This is a quietly glamorous venue and the bar on the first floor is popular with local residents who enjoy dressing up for the part to quaff a delicious cocktail while looking out onto the water. The venue also attracts many destination visitors from the South-East and from London thanks to the high speed train and the four bedrooms providing overnight accommodation.
The rooms are located above the Smokehouse across the cobbled street. With exposed brick walls, industrial wall-mounted piping, a dove grey colour palette, dark wood floors and doors, crisp white bedlinen, white painted wrought iron beds, and brick-tiled bathrooms with traditional bathware, the rooms feels like a very hip converted Warehouse in East London or New York. Mountains of feather soft pillows and duvets create a very comfortable bed and the wet room is beautifully designed with stainless steel trough drainage and a glass panel separating the shower from the loo keeping water safely away.
Having recently opened in 2011, Rocksalt is the biggest news to have hit Folkstone since the ferries pulled out eleven years ago, and hopefully it will put this coastal town on the foodie map.
The restaurant and bar
The bar upstairs benefits from the wonderful view looking down from above at the harbour. This is a convivial space to enjoy a drink for an hour, or even two, before and after dinner. Try the Sargeant Mess, a lovely muddle of raspberries and bubbles.
However, the main reason for staying at Rocksalt is to eat at the restaurant led by chef Mark Sargeant. This is his first solo project having been head chef at Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin starred restaurant at Claridge’s. Sargeant describes the restaurant as being about quality, locality, provenance and sustainability. The menu does have an emphasis on fish - homemade taramasalta, potted crayfish tails, Famous Folkestone Whelks, Rocksalt fish stew, coley, plaice and bream - but it also offers some British meat classics such as slow cooked pork cheeks, Kentish Chicken Coq au Vin, Roast Mersham Pheasants and a good line in local steak. The cheeseboard is stocked with local cheeses and the puddings include the famous Kentish Gypsy Tart for those with a very sweet tooth.
The wine menu offers a good range of mid-value wines including a Pinot Noir 2010 Wairarapa at £33, and a light Bourgogen Aligote 2009/11 Domaine Guy Roulot Burgundy, £36. Push the boat out with a Meursault 2006/7 at £71 and a Gran Reserva Rioha 1998/2000 at £61.
Best room
‘Kitten’ is the best option for families who would like to bring a child as it offers a double room and a single room as well as shower room all within one unit.
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| The atmospheric view from the Rock Salt restaurant overlooking Folkstone harbour. |
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| The outdoor terrace at Rock Salt |
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| The New York style bedrooms at Rock Salt |
