This rustic Italian pop up shack in Netil Market near Broadway Market serves up meatballs wiyh tagliatelle, aubergine parmigiana on sourdough, semolina shells and other authentic Italian dishes that taste like Mama has been cooking them for decades. Eat on gingham dressed tables and watch the next door bike menders fix brakes to the sound of reggae.
About
Restaurant reviews, foodie destinations and recommendations for brunch, Sunday lunch and dinner party menus in London, and sometimes further afield. The author is a food journalist who writes for Elle and Red, works in Soho, lives in Bow and escapes to Suffolk.
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A taste of Manhattan at this cafe cum deli cum grocery store on Calvert Street. Come for brunch then pick up some cheese and salami for lunch.
Leila's Shop and Cafe
Posted on
Saturday, 4 May 2013
LOBSTER MAC & CHEESE AND GREAT COCKTAILS
Hackney Road is a long and dark road to walk up at night. Once the shops, warehouses and trade outlets have pulled down their shutters, there is only the odd pub, kebab shop and a Bingo hall giving any signs of life in the evenings. But out of this drab darkness, dazzles the entrance of Mr Buckley's. A neat row of Hollywood movie lights along the awning and a welcoming red neon name sign in the window promises all the fun of the circus.
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| Mr Buckleys neon sign, |
Inside, it is as cosy and atmospheric as the outside promises. There is a pared down Scandi chic feel about the plywood furnishings, the smooth concrete surfaces and the lacquered exposed brick walls. But dim lighting, the cosy glow of red thrown from the neon sign and the sight of impeccably made cocktails being served in beautiful coupes creates a party atmosphere every night of the week to this eatery and bar which is open til 2am at the weekend.
Primarily a restaurant, Mr Buckley's serves fashionable 'small plates' including its justifiably lauded lobster mac and cheese which is a silky, seductive tower of pasta tubes sweating in a lobster butter with the refreshing pop of caviar bursting through the unctious goo.
There are some adventurous dishes on the menu and some work better than others. If you're after a familiar comfort food such as burger and chips then head over to the Sebright Arms up the road where Lucky Chip are in residency serving possibly the best burgers in town. Successes were the rare sliced lamb, duck rillette and the salted caramel ice cream.
With music played at moderate levels that allow conversation yet block out others, a spacious yet intimate layout that suits couples and groups alike, and a cosy bar downstairs that kicks off in the small hours, Mr Buckley's has rightly raced to the top of the East End's eaterie charts.
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| Pared back Scandi chic at Mr Buckley's |
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| Warehouse lighting at Mr Buckley's on Hackney Road |
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| Mr Buckley's duck rillette with crispbread |
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| Salted caramel ice cream |
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| Mr Buckley's famous lobster mac and cheese |
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| Mr Buckley's rare sliced lamb |
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| Mr Buckley's corn fritters |
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| Mr Buckley's spicy fried crab cakes |
Mr Buckley's restaurant review
Posted on
Saturday, 23 March 2013
Salt marsh lamb and saffron jelly at The Gallivant
Drive all the way down the flat straight marshland road that takes you to Camber Sands on the south coast of England and you'll find this unassuming road-side beach bistro. Inside you'll find an oasis of warmth, cosiness and local foods cooked spectacularly well. Stay the night in one of its clean, simple rooms and you can enjoy possibly the best bacon buttie for breakfast in the country. TS
| The entrance at The Gallivant Beach Bistro |
| Champagne and saffron jelly, earthy and satisfying |
| Camber Sands |
The Gallivant Beach Bistro restaurant review
Posted on
Sunday, 10 March 2013
Champagne on call and golden age of trains
Round the corner from my office is one of my favourite restaurants in Soho, Bob Bob Ricard. The polished brass, lush blue velvet curtains and Thirties inspired wallpapers ooze art deco chic. All tables are designed as booths reminiscent of the Golden Age of train travel with mahogany panelling, white table cloths, privacy curtains and a bell to call for more Champagne. Once settled in, it’s hard to ever leave. Try one of the deeply traditional English pies topped with glossy pastry tops stamped with the BBR stamp. TS
| The windows evoking the golden age of trains at Bob Bob Ricard in Soho |
| A pie crust embossed with Bob Bob Ricard |
SEE MORE OF BOB BOB RICARD...
Autumn food foraging on North Norfolk coast
Prepare to fall in love. Fall in love with modernism that is. The point of all Living Architecture holiday homes is to give people the opportunity to experience living in an architect designed house, in this case a house designed by the notable Sir Michael Hopkins. One can only imagine the cost of the build but for one week/weekend only, it can be your home.
Depending on your architectural preferences (traditional or modern) first impressions of the house will either be, from the exterior, bleak or staggeringly beautiful, and once inside, spartan or gloriously spacious. Whatever your initial judgment though, this house will beguile you, soothe you and engender such harmonious social interactions, that you will, without doubt, be loathed to leave and promising to return, despite the expensive - but not exorbitant - cost attached.
Oysters and royal jelly on Mersea Island
A long weekend on Mersea Island so we could gorge on oysters and seafood fresh from the boats at the Company Shed. Bring your own wine and bread and feast on fish. TS
| Monkey Beach Cottage, Mersea Island, UK |
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| The Company Shed, Mersea Island, Esses |
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| The Company Shed, a dozen rocks |
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| Otto knocking em back |
Pigs ears and greyhounds in Victoria Park Village
Vintage furniture, friendly staff and great food hit all the right notes in the epicentre of Hackney’s thriving food scene, Victoria Park. The Empress has undergone a gradual transformation over the last year since it was bought by Michael Buurman, and its present incarnation as a relaxed, warehouse-style East London eatery is its best.
The kitchen is now helmed by chef Elliott Lidstone (former chef of Michelin-starred L’Ortolan restaurant in Berkshire) who has put together a European menu with a fashionable emphasis on British cheap cuts such as ox tongue and pig’s ear. With the Ginger Pig butchers opposite, Jonathan Norris fishmongers up the road and E5 Bakehouse in neighbouring London Fields, The Empress has the finest food produce at its fingertips.
Markets, bars and restaurants in London's east end
Basically a long role-call of my friend's places - markets, cafes, bars, clubs, shops and restaurants - luckily all my friends have the coolest places.
Markets in East London
If you’ve got a serious vintage clothes addiction, head to the northern end of Brick Lane and make a beeline for the brilliant This Shop Rocks (129-131 Brick Lane), which dresses the most colourful characters seen at local cabaret and burlesque nights. Keep with the retro vibe and head to Labour and Wait (85 Redchurch Street), a delightful old-fashioned hardware store selling household products harking back to the Forties and Fifties.
Nearby Columbia Road Market is most famous for its colourful and fragrant Sunday flower market which runs from the crack of dawn until 2pm. However, it’s also a treasure trove of interiors shops and art galleries, including Nelly Duff (156 Columbia Road), Elphicks (60 Columbia Road) and Ryantown (126 Columbia Road), Red Online favourite Rob Ryan’s first shop selling his intricate and delicate papercut designs. A lovely find is knitting shop Prick Your Finger (260 Globe Road, Bethnal Green) where you’ll find knitting paraphernalia, from homespun yarns to upholstery yarns and chunky yarns from their own sheep. It also sells humorous knitted novelties such as knitted cigarette kits and crochet moustache kits.
Best hotels in East London
There’s so much to do in the East End with accommodation options to suit all tastes; it’s easy to make a weekend of it. For a quirky stay, there’s the deeply eccentric 40 Winks (109 Mile End Road; tel: 020 7790 0259; 40winks.org), a bed and breakfast with two flamboyantly decorated rooms, courtesy of its interior designer owner David Carter. David regularly organises decadently themed storytelling evenings from professional storytellers.
For contemporary cool, try Boundary, which offers an excellent restaurant (part of the Conran stable), stylish rooms and a popular rooftop for sunset drinks with a view, all on the super fashionable Redchurch Street near Brick Lane.
Even deeper into East London is Bethnal Green’s Town Hall (Patriot Square; tel: 020 7871 0460) which combines cooler-than-cool modern rooms with the architectural splendour of the former town hall. It also has its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Viajante and its sister eatery, The Corner Room.
For a cultural night out, see what’s on at the Hackney Picture House (270 Mare Street). It shows mainstream and art house movies, and its Hackney Attic venue on the top floor often has live bands and music, film quizzes, short film screenings, and spoken-word events. Similarly, Rich Mix (35-47 Bethnal Green Road) near Brick Lane is a cinema and arts centre with an eclectic line-up of spoken word events and art exhibitions. For a romantic movie night, head to the Aubin Cinema (64-66 Redchurch Street), where you can order a bottle of wine and watch your movie from a velvet sofa snuggled up under soft blankets.
One of the coolest places for a drink and a dance is Platform (Netil House, 2nd Floor, 1-7 Westgate Street), a cafe/bar/terrace on the second floor of a former Sixties office block, which has been turned into a warren of studio spaces. This industrial-style space is filled with a mish-mash of vintage leather sofas, retro kitchen tables and chairs and, bizarrely, houseplants, for an at-home feel. Every night features different DJs and sounds that always get the crowd up and dancing.
Bistrotheque (23-27 Wadeson Street), is just a stone’s throw from the Vyner Street art galleries and is a smart venue with a wood-panelled bar selling the perfect whiskey sour. It’s got a white-table clothed restaurant offering the best bistro food in the area, and a cabaret room showing some of London’s best burlesque and cabaret acts.
If you happen to be in East London on the first Thursday of the month, join the crowds of local artists and residents at the open evening on Vyner Street where all the art galleries open their doors to the public until 9pm in the evening.
Best bars and cafes in East London
There’s no shortage of good pitstops in East London, the most westerly one being Shoreditch’s Pitfield Lifestyle Shop and Cafe (Pitfield House, 31-35 Pitfield Street). Here you can linger over coffee and cake while perusing upcycled furniture, vintage finds, designer wallpapers and other curiosities.
Another quirky little place serving great coffee, snacks and wood-fired pizza, is Towpath Cafe (36 De Beauvoir Crescent, Hackney), a long, thin waterside eatery along the Hackney stretch of the Regent’s Canal. The Welsh rarebit is particularly recommended and makes a perfect brunch option for a sunny Sunday. Towpath also organises occasional events using barges and floating platforms to house DJ decks, fireworks and other seasonal events.
Too cool for school – but in a great way – is Ombra (1 Vyner Street). It’s a Venetian cafe and eatery on the uber-arty Vyner Street, home to architects and art galleries, and its authentic relaxed Italian vibe, staff and menu help turn every visit into an Aperol Spritz-fuelled fiesta.
Best restaurants in East London
Broadway Market’s cacophonous Saturday food market brings in swathes of food-lovers eating on the hoof, but it also now offers great bars and restaurants that are open all week long. Amongst these is the recently opened Market Cafe (2 Broadway Market), with its Italian worker’s cafe vibe, complete with Formica tables and Fifties wallpaper, a young, arty clientele, and a top-notch eating experience with an affordable price point. Try the ‘Hackney Cup’, a delicious Campari-based cocktail, and the homemade pasta with meat sauce (especially if it happens to be the pork cooked in milk).
For a slightly more formal environment, head to The Empress (130 Lauriston Road) in Victoria Park Village. It’s a relaxed, warehouse-style East London restaurant helmed by Chef Elliott Lidstone. The former chef of Michelin-starred L’Ortolan restaurant in Berkshire has put together a European menu with a fashionable emphasis on British cheap cuts such as ox tongue and pig’s ear. With the Ginger Pig butchers opposite, Jonathan Norris fishmongers up the road and E5 Bakehouse in neighbouring London Fields, The Empress has the finest produce at its fingertips.
It would be a crime to leave East London without trying one of its famous curry houses, but locals in-the-know avoid the tourist traps on Brick Lane and head to one of a ‘trinity’ of much-loved curry houses.Lahore (367 Commercial Road) and Mirch Masala (111-113 Commercial Road) are both brilliant, whileTayyabs (83-89 Fieldgate Street), has expanded across three buildings to cope with its unstoppable rise in popularity (though you’ll need to factor in queuing during peak times).
Interesting East London walks
The Olympic Games will leave some amazing legacies, not least of which is the development of Fish Island and Hackney Wick. A walk around this edgy neighbourhood, bound by the River Lea and the Hertford Union Canal, brings you to the very heart of East London factory land. This maze of warehouses, many featuring stunning street art, has slowly been turned into artists’ studio spaces, cool coffee shops, pizzerias, microbreweries and arts spaces. Stop for a coffee at Counter Cafe (7 Roach Road, Hackney Wick)or a pint of Crate Brewery IPA at The White Building (Unit 7, Queen’s Yard, 43 White Post Lane) and catch a view of the Olympic stadium on the opposite side of the waterway.
Designed originally to be the lungs of smog-choked working class East London, Victoria Park is an 86-hectare green space bordering Bethnal Green, Bow and Hackney. You can easily spend a day taking in this pretty, well-maintained park. Don’t miss the romantic houseboats moored along the Regent’s Canal to the west of the park, the Chinese pagoda, the new skate park and adventure playground to the east of the park. There’s also a boating lake and the Pavilion Cafe (Victoria Park, Old Ford Road) which sells Square Mile coffee and does the meanest brunch menu in all of East London.
Folkstone whelks, Kentish chickens and Gypsy Tart
There are big plans for Folkestone. The high speed train from St Pancras has slashed the journey time down to just 50 minutes and town planners have earmarked run-down districts for ambitious regeneration plans. Investing into this future is chef Mark Sargeant of Saturday Kitchen fame who, having worked under Gordon Ramsay at Claridges when the restaurant earned a Michelin star, has opened two restaurants on Folkestone harbour: Smokehouse, an upmarket fish and chip cafe, and Rocksalt, a smart restaurant and bar.
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| The weatherboarded curved sides of Mark Sargeant's Rock Salt, Folkstone |
These glossy glass, steel and black weatherboarded buildings sit in striking contrast to the gritty industry of this working harbour with its piles of fishing nets, cobbled quay and hotch-potch of warehouses. It’s a wonderful juxtaposition of old and new, industry and leisure, utility and beauty, all unified by seafood and its provenance. You don’t need Heston Blumenthal spraying salty sea air above your head - just take a deep breath and fill your lungs with it. The smell of the sea and the low-tide muds, the cry of seagulls and the sight of fishermen brining in their hauls whip up an appetite for seafood, the speciality of Rocksalt.
Rock Salt restaurant review
Posted on
Thursday, 6 December 2012
Two michelin stars and deep fried pigs head
Chef Tom Kerridge hit the road running with the Hand & Flower - not only did it receive a Michelin star within a year of opening back in 2005, but it recently received a second star, making it the only pub in the country to do so. However, it's a little disingenuous to describe the Hand and Flowers as a pub, even a gastro pub. You won't find anyone propping up the bar with a pint and a packet of crisps. The cosy, heavily beamed interior is given over entirely to rustic candle-lit dining tables which you're best to book (even for midweek lunch) to guarantee your spot among the romantic couples lingering over their Michelin starred meal.
And linger you can't help but do. The building sits uncomfortably close to the side of one of the main roads exiting Marlow in Berkshire, but this quickly becomes forgotten once inside. The restaurant is so warm, the candle-light so relaxing, the leather banquettes so comfortable, the ceilings so cosily low and the staff so attentive, that it's hard not to find yourself hypnotised into a delicious stupor - and that's before the food even arrives. Read more....
Hand & Flower restaurant review
Posted on
Sunday, 11 November 2012
Sloe gin and wild mushrooms in a rural corner of Hampshire
You wouldn’t think you could find such a remote and rustic hideaway just one hour from London. The 15 minute drive from Basingstoke quickly leaves behind the Basingstoke burbs and has you winding through quiet lanes and sheep dotted fields to where The Wellington Arms discreetly sits in solitariness, surrounded by well tended vegetable beds and planters.

From the outside this is a modest building revealing little of the warmth and space that bubbles away inside. Step through the door and you will be pleasantly surprised by the sight of a cosy, bustling restaurant, filled to the rafters even midweek, a fire merrily crackling away in the corner, a crystal decanter of homemade sloe gin glittering on the counter, and the owner chatting at leisure with his customers despite being at full capacity.
The Wellington Arms restaurant review
Posted on
Friday, 5 October 2012
Step by step salted butter tart recipe
An utterly divine dish celebrating fat, sugar and salt. And simple to make. Specially requested by Marisa Bell for her birthday. Now got to bring it into work on the tube. TS
| Salted butter tart |
Serves: 8
Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 1 hour
250 g superfine caster sugar
115 g salted butter, diced
250 ml whipping cream
Lightly whipped cream, for serving
125g flour
Pinch of fine sea salt
75g cold unsalted butter, diced
1 egg
30g caster sugar
1. For the pastry, combine the flour and salt in a food processor and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles very coarse bread crumbs. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.
Cooking time: 1 hour
250 g superfine caster sugar
115 g salted butter, diced
250 ml whipping cream
Lightly whipped cream, for serving
125g flour
Pinch of fine sea salt
75g cold unsalted butter, diced
1 egg
30g caster sugar
1. For the pastry, combine the flour and salt in a food processor and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles very coarse bread crumbs. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.
You will need
For the sweet butter pastry:
Method
2. In another bowl, whisk together the egg and sugar. Pour the egg mixture over the flour and butter mixture and mix with a fork. Squeeze a bit of the mixture between your fingers. If it holds together, transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface; if not, add a couple of teaspoons of ice water and test again. Knead gently and form into a ball and flatten into a disc. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before using.
3. Roll out the pastry on a floured surface and line a 23 or 24 centimetre tart pan. Prick the base of the tart with a fork and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
4. Preheat the oven to 190°C/gas mark 5. Place the tart shell on a baking sheet. Line the tart with parchment paper and fill it with dried beans. Bake until the pastry is just set, about 15 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and continue to cook until the pastry is a dark golden color, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the tart to a wire rack and leave to cool completely.
5. Combine the sugar and butter in a deep, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Stir to mix and cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter and sugar caramelize, 10 to 15 minutes. The sugar and butter will go through several stages. First it will look like a flour and butter roux, then it will appear curdled, and then the butter will leak out of the sugar mixture. Don’t worry: it will all come together in the end.
6. While the caramel is cooking, pour the cream into a saucepan and bring it to a boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and set aside.
7. Keep stirring the butter and sugar mixture, watching carefully as it begins to caramelize and remembering that the heat in the pan will continue to cook the caramel once it is removed from the burner. You want a rich, dark caramel color, but you don’t want to burn the mixture, which will give it a bitter taste.
8. When the caramel reaches the right color, remove the pan from the heat and slowly and carefully pour in the cream; the mixture will bubble and spit. When the caramel stops bubbling, return it to low heat and cook for five minutes, stirring to dissolve the caramel in the cream. Remove the pan from the heat and let the caramel cool for 10 minutes.
9. Slowly pour the cooled caramel into the baked pastry shell and chill the tart for at least two hours. This tart is easier to cut when it is chilled. Remove the tart from the pan and, using a wet knife, cut it into wedges. Serve the tart at room temperature, however, for maximum flavor, with a dollop of whipped cream.
Recipe, Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient, Jennifer McLagan (Jacqui Small)
Burger and lobster for £20 in Soho
Everything on the menu is £20 and there are only two things on the menu: burger or lobster. Ask for the Californian if you're off carbs. Otherwise get ready for some gut busting portions. Lobster eaters have the most fun with operating gowns and utensils provided for the big feast. Perfect for a quick after work blow-out. Grab a booth for a the full on US-style experience. The squeamish should avoid peering into the live lobster tanks at the back of the restaurant. TS
Burger and Lobster restaurant review
Posted on
Wednesday, 12 September 2012
Location:
Soho, London, UK














